Versatility of slipcovers

One of the nice things about slipcovers is their versatility as a decorating aid. They can be use in both traditional and trendy settings. You can create many different impressions and keep changing from season to season, just by giving the same couch or armchair a completely different cover each time. You can change the character not only of furniture but also of the whole room by changing the fabric, color and pattern o the covers.


The original purpose of slipcovers was to protect costly find fabrics on upholstered furniture from wear and tear and to keep them clean. Today we make a decisive point of coupling the practical purpose with a decorative one. If protection to the upholstered furniture is the main concern, dirt and dust must never be allowed to work their way through to ruin the upholstery under the covers. Then you must choose a fabric that is closely woven and easily laundered or dry-cleaned, because the covers will receive all the soiling that would otherwise attack the upholstery. Fabrics that are crease-resistant, fade-proof and pre-shrunk are also ideal for slipcovers.


Trends and changes in slipcover fashions continue to govern the design of slipcovers. Unpiped seams can help to bring an uncluttered and simplicity to a setting, whereas, piped seams make traditional furniture look better and correct.


If you plan to use prints and pattern fabric, choose them wisely. The density of color and pattern can alter the apparent size of the chair or couch quite considerably. Large patterns, bright, intensive colors and rough textures tend to make the covered item appear larger. The opposite is true if the pattern is small or the color is light and the texture is smooth.


Large patterned fabrics require more thought and care than do small all-over patterns or solid one-color fabrics. Large motifs must be well centered on every section of the cover. Seams too, must be matched exactly, and this means you have to buy extra fabric and there will be a certain amount of wastage. Small all-over designs and plain fabrics are the easiest and most economical to use as they don’t have to be matched at the seams and there is no wastage.


If in some cases that the print you want to use seems a bit too overpowering by itself, then tone it down by using a solid color with it. For example, make the main cover in the print but cover the loose seat cushion with plain, solid color that matches one in the print. If the unit has a separate back cushion as well, then cover it in a solid color too. The final effect will be more relaxed. Another way of using a print and plain combination would be to cover the whole unit in the print and the skirt in plain. The skirt could be left either quite plain or trimmed at the hem edge with the print. Usually the nature of the print will inspire you the best method of trimming or mix and match with loose cushions.

Finding the right cushion filling

If you are thinking of making your own cushions, you will concert about finding the right cushion fillings. There are all kinds of materials available to stuff into your cushions. They all have different features and feel. We will see some of them about their characteristic, quality and comfort.

Down

This is a filling to use if you are thinking in superlatives. It is soft and fluffy and very light in weight; it keeps its buoyancy better than any other filling, therefore a little goes a very long way and it lasts almost a lifetime. It is also very expensive and not easy to get from shops. If you have an old down quilt that you no longer need, then lucky you, because you can make a super exclusive cushions that would cost a fortune to buy.

Feather and down mixture

This is less expensive but still in the luxury class. It is only a little heavier than Down. The more feathers there are in the mixture, the heavier the cushion will be. Also expensive to buy and not always available, but if you have an old feather pillow to spare you can make a fairly sizeable luxury type of cushion.KapokThis is a vegetable down and reasonably priced compared to the first two. It is soft, lightweight, resilient and highly moisture-proof. Although it tends to lose its body and turns to powder eventually, and sometimes goes lumpy, it is still considered as a very good filling material because of all its other good qualities. In spite of its eventual loss of body, it will probably outlast the life of the cushion cover.

Man-made fiber filling

This category includes Terylene, Nylon or Dacron and is much cheaper then Kapok and quite inexpensive. These fillings are non-absorbent, therefore are practical to use because you can wash the whole cushion without removing the cover if you wished.

Poly-form filling

This is a 50/50 mixture of latex and plastic foam crumbs. It is fairly lightweight, resilient, and inexpensive and goes a long way. It makes a firm, light and comfortable cushion but not a smooth one because the crumbs show up occasionally in little lumps under the cover. The best way to stop this happening is to make an inner case of fine plastic sheeting, and then fills it with the poly-foam filling.

Polystyrene beads

They are great for floor cushions. They are light, resilient and firm in use. The more you use in the cushion the firmer it becomes but the less you use the more comfortable it is to sit on. Don’t tempt to use too little or you will defeat the purpose of a floor cushion.

Shaped foam forms

They come in many shapes and sizes, or they can be cut to any size and shape that you wish. These forms come in a variety of thick nesses. You can choose from Latex or plastic foam. Although an inner case for foam forms is optional, it is better to have one, because the outer cover slips on more easily and once on will not slip out of place

About the lengths and fullness of curtain

How to decide the best length of curtain is never an easy task.

About lengthsThere are four acceptable lengths for hanging curtains. Evan so, full length curtains are more frequently use because they improve the size and shape of most windows and rooms. Curtains that hang from the top of the window always look better floor length than any other. Café curtain are the exception here, but then they are really half curtains, which mainly hang from well below the top of the window anyways.

Sill lengthThese are made to hang from the top of the track t just clear the sill by about 1/2 inch, curtains should not touch the sill or they will soil and need laundering too often. Sill length is the inevitable length for curtains that have to be hung from inside the reveal such as dormer window styles and some café curtain styles.

Apron lengthThe usual length for these is from 2 inches to 6 inches below the sill, depending on the depth of the apron, the wooden board that runs across and under the sill. This length excludes draughts more effectively than sill length. It is correct only for curtains hung from the top of the window and quite wrong fro those hung inside the reveal.Skirting board lengthThis hangs to the top of the skirting board and its probably the ugliest length ever thought of. Its only reason for existing is that it is practical because the curtains hang free of brooms and cleaners, and are less likely to soil very easily. In spite of this, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not worth considering. It looks so indecisive.Floor lengthThese curtains hang to within 1 inch of the floor or carpet. If carpet is to be laid at a later date, take measurement to within 1-1/2 inches of the floor.Curtain which end somewhere between the apron and the skirting board are the most common mark of the amateur. It looks mean and is neither one thing nor the other, and should be avoid like the plague by anyone who is particular about effect.

About fullnessFor curtains to look good, as well as correct, they should have plenty of fullness. The curtains should undulate in well-controlled folds across the window, not just wide enough to cover the window in flat sheets. So don’t skimp on fabric. It is wiser to buy meters and meters of a reasonably priced fabric rather than not enough of a high priced one.How much fullness depends on the type of fabric you use and the style of heading you choose for the top of the curtains. The lighter and finer the fabric, the more fabric you will need. For sheer and lightweight fabrics you will need three times the width measurement of the track for adequate fullness. For medium weight and heavier weaves, twice the track length will be enough, but for very heavy fabrics such as velvet and corduroys, perhaps half the track length again will be all you need.You will find it easier still to gauge adequate fullness by deciding to use one of the fantastic ranges of heading tapes, which will give you the heading style you want. These tapes are designed and worked out with precision to produce perfectly spaced pleats. Beautifully presented pamphlets regarding these tapes can be had free from ship counter dealing with curtain fittings. These pamphlets give recommended allowances for particular styles and have detailed charts with measurements worked out exactly, so that all you have to do is to look up your track width on the chart to find out how much tape you will need and also the number of fabric widths required for that window. This is also a great help in working out the amount of fabric to buy.

Get the right length and fullness of curtain for your windows make them another focus point of your rooms.